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The not so humble paparajote, more than just a sweet dish in the Region of Murcia!
This typical Murcia sweet course is simple, unique and delicious
The humble “paparajote” is one of the most emblematic foods instantly associated with the city of Murcia and the countryside of the Campo de Cartagena, prepared using simple local ingredients and standing as a symbol of the “huerta” (or market garden of Murcia) during the annual local fiestas held in the regional capital in the week after Easter.
Unusually, the most important ingredient in a paparajote is one which is not to be eaten: a freshly picked lemon leaf. Leaves are deep fried in a simple batter made from flour and egg before sugar and cinnamon are sprinkled on the top, and hey presto: the paparajote is ready to be served!
During the frying the leaf imbues the batter with the taste and scent of lemon, the result being a mixture of the bready taste of the batter, the sweetness of the sugar and cinnamon and of course a certain citric tang. It really could hardly be simpler!
As with so many other culinary traditions in southern Spain, it appears that paparajotes were introduced during the centuries of Moorish rule before becoming a favourite among the country folk of the huerta long after the Christian Reconquista of the 13th century. However, the derivation of the name of the dish remains unclear.
Nowadays many Murcianos might not eat paparajotes for 51 weeks of the year, but during the “Fiestas de Primavera” (and to a lesser extent the Feria in September) they tend to make up for their long period of abstinence. The dish is a perennial favourite at the open-air “barraca” restaurants which are set up on Easter Day and remain open for a week, with no meal complete unless it is rounded off with this most traditional and flavoursome of sweets.
At the barracas the price of paparajotes has been fixed at 1 euro each for a number of years – all prices are the same at all barracas, and are very affordable – but as with so many local specialities they come with a word of warning for the uninitiated foreign visitor. Some murcianos, keen to have a little fun, might try to convince you that the whole of the leaf is to be eaten, but don’t even entertain the idea: instead, slide the batter off the leaf with your teeth, leaving the leaf on the plate afterwards, and enjoy the contrasting flavours without the bitter taste of chlorophyll!
Typical ingredients:
Eggs
Milk
Grated lemon peel
Lemon leaf
Wheat flour
Yeast
Olive, sunfflower or "orujo" oil
Sugar
Ground cinnamon
Ralladura de limón.
Hoja de limón (muy importante).
Harina de trigo.
Levadura.
Aceite de orujo, oliva o girasol.
Azúcar.
Canela molida
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